As you’re driving south on route 6 on the west coast of the south island, marveling at the ocean and continuous crash of waves along the shore, there will be a point when you look ahead and see the rock formations just off the shoreline start to change. They start to look, well, sedimentary… but that’s not quite it… squashed together… but that’s not quite right…. like pancakes stacked on top of one-another! Yes! That’s what they look like! Drive a little farther still and there’ll be a big sign on a stone wall saying “Pancake Rocks [and] Blowholes”. After you park, you head down a path into what looks like a dark forest, but almost immediately pops you out into the open air (and wind!) next to a very scenic rock wall to line your path down to the many overlooks
I was fortunate enough to encounter this geological marvel twice during my time in New Zealand. The best part was that in my two visits, I had completely different experiences. On the first visit to this amazing place, we had beautiful, clear, sunny weather with only a little bit of wind to deal with. It was nice to just stand out and stare in amazement at the rocks that truly do live up to their nickname “pancake rocks”. My mom and I meandered the path, taking our time at each lookout and staring at the rock formations. They’re beautiful in their own way, but mostly they’re just… weird. I certainly have never seen anything like them before, and scientists can’t even explain why they formed the way
that they did. It’s all fascinating, but equally as mesmerizing is just watching the massive waves crash up against the rocks and wondering how long it will be until the water eventually erodes them enough to take them back out to sea.
The second time I visited Punakaiki is was freezing cold, pouring rain and pretty much miserable weather. I knew my boyfriend would love the rocks so I begrudgingly pulled on my rain jacket and a warm hat and took to the same path knowing I was going to return wet and frozen. When I thought I would just be seeing the same exact pancake rocks, I wasn’t wrong, but the difference was that this time the blowholes were in full force!! As much as I enjoyed the nice weather the first time around, the second time was definitely better when we got to watch the Chimney Pot blowhole explode for the first time…. and for about 20 minutes afterwards while we stood and stared. I probably could have stood and been entertained by it all day. The powerful waves come in through a narrow chute and crash into the rocks so hard that the water has created a blowhole where it continues up until it shoots out of the opening at the top. The water coming out looks like an explosion and soaks anyone who is untimely caught standing on the bridge that continues the walking path.
After the Chimney Pot Blowhole, the path continues to a lookout over another blowhole, which was equally as fascinating, although I couldn’t watch it without getting soaked, so I moved on to watch the surge pool which is an impressive display of the raw power of the ocean. The whole loop is advertised as a 20 minute walking look, but that seems like a serious under-estimation if you’re as fascinated by this place as I was. Either way, the walk is very easy, well maintained and one of the only tracks I’ve seen in New Zealand that was actually paved, so very accessible as well. On your way out, there are two souvenir shops and a restaurant that has a cheeky sign claiming that the “pancakes rock at pancake rocks”. We checked out one of the souvenir shops on the first visit and it was very nice, but nothing out of the ordinary from souvenir shops you’ll find all over New Zealand.
My inspiration to travel has always come from my mom because before I even have memories of it, she was packing me up and setting off around the world. While I may not remember some of these trips as clearly because I was so young, it made travel and the desire to adventure run deep in my blood. I was traveling before I could walk/ talk/ photograph and to be honest, truly appreciate what was going on, but as I get older the more I can look back in awe at what my mom did- not just because she took me to cool places, but because she decided that having small children was not a reason to stop traveling. Instead of leaving us behind with a babysitter, she brought us along to share these amazing experiences. Now that I’m able to travel on my own, I try to return the favor as much as possible, so when I travel somewhere new, the first person I invite is usually my mom.
My mom arrived in New Zealand and spent a week solo traveling the North Island (decidedly not enough time) before she flew into Nelson where we had a very happy reunion at the airport. She only had a week and I had to work over the weekend, so I planned a week of exploring the northern half of the south island. Now, it is true that most of the “must-see” places on the south island are in the southern half, but I’ve come to think of the northern half of the south island as very underrated, and here is why:
Day 1: Punakaiki & Arthur’s Pass
We set off from Nelson bright and early the next morning with the intention of our first stop being Punakaiki (pancake rocks). We came across signs for the Buller Gorge Swing Bridge over the Buller River, and decided to get out and stretch our legs. For $10 each we got to cross a (in my opinion) terrifying swing bridge that was absolutely beautiful (once I opened my eyes) and certainly a good way to wake me up. On the far side of the swing bridge were lots of walks you could take, but since we were just starting out on a long day of driving and sight seeing, we opted for one that was meant to take 15 minutes… well, with photo stops it ended up taking closer to half an hour, but what’s the point if you don’t have the photos to prove it, right? The walk was beautiful and a great spot to stretch our legs before getting back into the car and continuing on to Punakaiki.
Driving down the west coast is every bit as incredible as I imagined, with the rocky 
shoreline giving way to pristine beaches. We were constantly pulling over to the side of the road to take pictures and waiting to get the perfect wave curl or the biggest splash as it crashed against the rock islands just off the shore. As we got farther 
along, we could see the rocks starting to change and sure enough, the town of Punakaiki was just around the corner! The parking lot was across from the entrance to the site and next to a cheeky restaurant that claims “Pancakes rock at Pancake Rocks.” Pancake rocks are a scientific marvel because scientists are still not sure exactly what caused the rocks to form this way, but they look exactly how they sound- like pancakes stacked on top of one another. We didn’t get there at high tide when there are also some amazing blow-holes, but there were still very impressive wave pools crashing against the rocks below. The park is set up very conveniently with a winding path that has overlooks to check out the pancake rock formations and blowholes below. It is all very picturesque… although the wind makes it a little hard to get your hair to cooperate.
Once we were satisfied that no pancake rock was left unturned, we continued on our way to cut through Arthurs 
Pass National Park in the direction of Christchurch. The drive down the coast quickly changed into the dark green forest of the inland route. Beaches were replaced by 
forests and the ocean was replaced by vast rivers. Arthur’s Pass was where my mom had her first Kea experience, and what an experience it was. We stopped at the viaduct lookout and as she was trying to take a picture of a pretty little bird when a Kea strutted out from behind a rock as confident as can be to see what the humans were doing. In our haste to get out of the car and get pictures of him (or her, who knows?), I left my car window wide open and it was only moments before the bird flew up and landed on the door peering into the wide open window to see if we brought him any food. While I was freaking out that he was going to fly in the car and help himself, my mom was finding the whole situation hilarious. We had to wait a little while as he hung out on top of the car before we could move on, but he was too cute for us to really mind.
As I’ve mentioned, I have driven through Arthur’s Pass quite a few times back and forth between the two ski areas I’ve been working at, but this time we were able to stop and do a short hike. Again, because of limited time (and at this point, daylight hours), we did the Devils Punchbowl Waterfall Hike. I didn’t realize that this hike was pretty much straight uphill with about a million man-made stairs, but my mom was a trooper and we made it to the waterfall just as the last of the sun was still hitting it, creating a beautiful rainbow against the spray. The waterfall was stunning and absolutely worth the little bit of pain it took to get up there. From the carpark we were a little over two hours away from the Christchurch airport where we were picking up my boyfriend, Bennett that evening.
We made it there no problem and spent the first night of our brief road trip at the Amross Motor Lodge about 15 minutes from the airport.
Day 2: Kaikoura
After what I would consider a leisurely morning, we left the hotel around 10am to set off for Kaikoura along the coastal road. The difference between the two coasts was immediately apparent, and instead of winding along the hillside, the road was almost a “real” highway- as in it was relatively smooth and straight. When we came into Kaikoura, the view over the bright blue ocean with its white capped waves and beyond to the snow-capped peaks in the background were captivating. Despite the obvious contrast between ocean and mountain, everything was in beautiful harmony.
We decided that a whale watching cruise was the call, despite the amazing sounding trips to kayak with the seals or hector dolphins, whale watching scenic flights and other various wildlife excursions. Really there were just too many 
enticing options to choose from. We lucked out and walked into the information center about 10 minutes before the last whale watching tour started and they assured us we would have enough time to make it onto the boat. Whale Watch Kaikoura advertises a 99% success rate of seeing a whale, and they absolutely delivered. We saw two different whales, and the crew was incredibly knowledgeable. They even warned us as the whale was about to dive so we could all get the classic “waving whale tail” picture. While the boat went around looking for surfacing whales, they showed videos and pictures of all the whales that frequent the area. The whole trip was about three hours and the thrill of seeing whales made time fly by. Even as someone who gets extremely motion sick, I can say that this was an undeniably amazing experience.
We left Kaikoura around 5pm continuing north and as we drove we spotted lots of seals all over the rocks in the ocean next to the highway. We drove about another hour and a half to a friends farm near Blenheim where we would spend the night.
Day 3: Marlborough & Picton
After a morning walk around my friends’ sheep farm to look at all the baby lambs, we headed out to Picton, which is the northern most town in the south island and is nestled at the start of the Marlborough Sounds. The town of Picton is a quaint sea-side town with lots of little shops and cafes next to a marina. This is also the town where you 
catch the ferry across the sound to Wellington in the north island. After a bite to eat and a wander through some shops, we decided on a little hike in the Victoria Domain to overlook the sound. The helpful people at the information center pointed us on our way to the Snout Track which would take us to the Queen Charlotte view point. The hike was a steady uphill climb through the brush on a well marked track that frequently peeked out over the sound where you could see the boats, including the giant ferries passing through. The view from the top was beautiful, but I imagine would have been nicer on a more clear day.
When we got back to the car we set off towards the Marlborough wine region back near Blenheim. We decided to start at Cloudy Bay winery for a tasting, and luckily got there at 3:55pm because what we didn’t realize was that most of the wineries close between 4 and 4:30. Cloudy Bay closed at 4, but they were nice enough to still let us do a tasting of their Sauvignon Blanc (what the region is known for) and their Pinot Noir. The ladies were also very nice and recommended the winery across the street that didn’t close until 4:30 (we got there at 4:15) for our next and last tasting. The Allan Scott winery had a beautiful little restaurant with outdoor seating in a small, well-maintained garden and you went down into a little room with a bar for the tasting. Here we tried four different wines that were also specific to the region. After our tasting, we purchased a few bottles to enjoy later and then started on our way back to St. Arnaud to stay at the Alpine Lodge for the next three nights.
Day 4: Nelson Market & Lake Rotoiti
So while I actually had to work this day, I sent my mom and boyfriend off to find the Nelson Market that I have been dying to go to, but unfortunately have never gotten to because it is only on Saturdays when I am always working. The market is something like your typical flea market with lots of booths selling everything from produce to hand crafted wood-work, to wool creations, to jewelry. It has been highly recommended by everyone I have met here, and 
my mom raved about it, so although I haven’t actually been there, I can say that it is a must-do if you’re in Nelson on a Saturday!
This was also the day that they went and did a little hiking (and swimming…) around Lake Rototiti. Now, I definitely don’t recommend swimming… only my boyfriend is crazy enough to jump into this freezing cold lake, but remember the eels I mentioned in my previous post about Lake Rotoiti….? Yikes.
Day 5: Skiing at Rainbow Ski Field
Skiing!! I got to share the mountain I’ve been skiing all season with 
both Bennett and my mom. This happened to be my last day of work and the big Club Champs ski race, so there was certainly a lot going on, but the bright blue skies full of sunshine made for a perfect day of spring skiing. Rainbow will always have a special place in my heart because of this whole season, but I can definitely say that if you like mountains that were made for real skiers, you will love Rainbow. It is certainly not a big, flashy resort, and there is no “apres ski” to be found, but the skiing is just solid, no-nonsense, fun terrain with some incredible views to be found. It’s a true skiers ski field.
Day 6: Golden Bay
The two passions in my family have always been skiing and horse back riding. Therefore, I could not pass up the opportunity to surprise my mom with a horse back ride in Golden Bay. If you’re considering following this itinerary at some point, I would highly recommend doing the Abel Tasman National Park/ Golden Bay this day. The beaches in this area are some of the most pristine, stunning beaches I have ever seen and there are endless activities to choose from. I booked the three of us a 3 hour ride with a company called Hack ‘n Stay. I’ve done a lot of horse back rides all over the world, and let’s just say, they aren’t all created equal. Now there is a time and place for everything, and I understand the need for “pony rides” where the horses just mindlessly follow each other from years of doing the same thing every single day, but when you have riding experience, those kind of trips just don’t do it for ya. I 
chose Hack ‘n Stay because everything I read seemed more geared towards riders who had experience, and I was not disappointed at all. While the horses were all well behaved, they were definitely not the “nose-to-tail” trail horses that I feared and our guide, Baerbel was extremely knowledgeable and very eager to teach Bennett, our “least experienced” rider. She even brings her phone along on the ride and takes a ton of pictures to share with you at the end, which was such a nice touch! The ride I chose took us along a path through the woods and then out to the vast beach of Golden Bay. We rode on the beach for a ways and then went over a small portion of road to a large estuary that went all the way out to the ocean again. Those of us more comfortable with speed went and explored the beach a little bit, and were constantly splashing through parts of the winding rivers and the ocean. While it may have been ambitious to book a three hour ride while none of us are in “riding shape” (if you know horses, you know what I’m talking about), we all agreed that it was absolutely worth our sore legs.
After a nice cup of tea at the barn, we headed back to Nelson for the night.
Day 7: Nelson
I didn’t have much planned for this day, but it ended up being a good day of just exploring Nelson. We did some serious damage to our wallets at the Nelson Sheepskin Store where my mom bought lots of great souvenirs, including a beautiful sheepskin rug that she shipped home. On our way to Tahunanui Beach, we saw signs for Natureland Zoo and decided to spend some time in this impressive little zoo. While the whole space was not very big, this zoo does an amazing job of creating habitats for their animals. There were monkeys, lemurs, llamas, pigs, and a bunch of native New Zealand birds including morepork owls and kea! The kea enclosure was particularly great because you actually got to walk in the enclosure with them and see them right up close. While I practically had to drag my mom away from all of the birds, we finished off our day at Tahunanui Beach before I had to take her to the airport. Sadly, our week of touring the northern half of the south island of New Zealand had to come to a close…. but don’t feel too bad for her, she’s off to visit my little sister in Hawaii for a few days, before briefly flying home and then off to Egypt for two and a half months. Really, is it any wonder where my wanderlust comes from?
As for me…. Bennett and I are off on a whirlwind tour of the rest of New Zealand. I hope you’re all prepared to follow along because if anything is for certain, there are many adventures to come.
This week I was able to explore the other major lake in Nelson Lakes National Park- Lake Rotoroa. If you recall from a 
few weeks ago, I went for a hike around Lake Rotoiti, which was incredibly scenic and a great introduction to the area where I am living. I decided to venture slightly farther this time, and drove about 40 minutes… or what should have been 40 minutes if I didn’t manage to get a little lost…. to another beautiful lake nestled in between lush green hillsides. After some research before-hand, I decided to do the Braeburn Track hike, which is meant to take about two hours round-trip and goes up to a pretty little waterfall in the woods. I struggled a bit at first to find the start of the hike because it really isn’t a very well marked park, but once I figured it out, I was off! In retrospect I really wasn’t doing very well following directions that day….
The path was well maintained at first despite how wet everything was from all the rain we’ve been having, and I found myself missing my horse, because it would have been a perfect horse-riding trail! Once in the thick of the woods, the trail narrowed and I was again surrounded by lush greenery and plants that I have never seen anywhere else. I don’t have the slightest clue what this tree (is it even a tree?) is, but I am completely fascinated by it! It looks like it has fern leaves, but is growing like a tree? The hike was wonderfully quiet with just the constant 
sound of running water from the stream and the occasional bird. Somehow even when I’m alone, hiking never feels lonely, and I think it’s because there is always something familiar about it. The refreshing smell of the wet earth, the comfortable squish of mud under my hiking boots, the feel of tree bark in my hands when I have to grab onto a tree to keep from falling into that same mud…. really, I’m just as clumsy here as I am everywhere else in the world. But seriously, the hiking here as all been so beautiful and the Braeburn track at Lake Rotoroa was no different.
The last part of the path was not as steep as I would have thought and came out to a view of a long, skinny waterfall that gracefully fell down into a stream below. I had the option to climb down to the bottom of it, but with how wet, muddy and generally bad the footing was, I decided 
to just turn around and follow the path back. The return loop followed the stream most of the way and there were some lovely views of the water as it cascaded over rocks on it’s way to the lake. The whole trek took only about an hour and fifteen minutes, but every second of it was beautifully serene.
What a week for small adventures. I drove five hours in heavy rain and fog to the new town that I’ll be living in. I learned how to put chains on a car… and what to do when they break going up a steep, dirt road covered in wet, heavy snow. I realized how much of an adventure just going to the grocery store can be when you’re in a country where you don’t even know the names of the grocery stores, let alone how to get there. And best of all, I discovered that I’m living only five minutes from a national park and I got to experience my first bit of “tramping” in NZ!
I have officially moved into the house I will be living in for the rest of my time working in New 
Zealand. I am staying in the incredibly small town – I’m talking one hotel and one gas station/ convenience store, small – of St. Arnaud. What this town lacks in population and amenities though, it more than makes up for in raw, natural beauty. St. Arnaud is nestled within a short drive of three different National Parks: Kahurangi, Abel Tasman and Nelson Lakes. I am lucky enough to be living only a five minute drive from Nelson Lakes National Park which is full of hiking trails around one of the most scenic lakes I have ever seen, Lake Rotoiti. (Rumor has it there are some massive fresh water eels that are over a hundred years old swimming around in this lake, but since I didn’t know to look on my first trip, I’ll have to make a return and [warily] go check them out!)
Real quick though, before we get too excited about the proximity of some good hiking, let’s go back to a “real life” adventure I experienced. After you move into a new apartment, one of the first things you obviously have to do is stock the cabinets/ fridge! Well, when you’re in a country you’re familiar with, a run to the grocery store is usually pretty simple, you know the food you need, you know the brands you like and most importantly, you know what the grocery store is CALLED. When you’re traveling…. let’s just say, it isn’t quite as simple. Luckily, one of our ski team sponsors is a discount grocery store called Pak n’ Save, which is basically similar in layout to a Costco, but you don’t have to buy in bulk. While this information was helpful, it doesn’t fully prepare you for walking into a store where nothing but the produce looks familiar (and even some of that is different… sweet potatoes are apparently called kumaras in NZ). On another note: HOLY MOLY is food expensive here. Even in the discount store! Honestly 11 NZD for a four pack of tomatoes. Ugh. So, between trying to do conversions from kilos to pounds, and then NZD to USD and just generally staring at all the different brands for everything (I about had a meltdown trying to figure out which of the hundred different brands/ types of bread I should buy) – I definitely left with a bit of a headache… but also a full car’s worth of groceries! The struggle was real, but I’m going to chalk that one up as a success!
Now on to a far more fun and (more importantly) scenic adventure!! As previously mentioned, I am living only five minutes from Nelson Lakes National Park, and while it unfortunately rained most of the past week, it did clear up long enough for me to go on a short hike, or “tramp” as they call it 
here. There are many hikes of varying difficulties and lengths in this National Park and for my first one, I chose to take it a little easier and did one called The Loop Track. The track starts along the shore line of Lake Rotoiti and then ventures up into the thick, but lush green woods that are protected by the Rotoiti Nature Recovery Project. Everywhere I went, there were a million different hues of green, from the moss,
to the tree leaves to the different types of grasses and shrubs, but there was also a surprising amount of black. Many of the trees had black bark, and the mud was so saturated and dark it almost appeared black as well. It was all so overwhelmingly beautiful though, what should have been an easy 2 hour hike, quickly became three because I was constantly stopping to take pictures and just breathe in my incredible surroundings. There were constant songs and noises from birds and little creatures shuffling around, but the shrubbery was so thick that I could only rarely catch sight of them. And while I knew there were animals around, I was shocked that during my whole time in the park (nearly 4 hours by the end of it), I only saw two other people!
The walk through the forest was enchanting, but the real magic was the sight of the lake when the clouds cleared and I could see the glass surface of the water with the rugged, snowy mountains as
far as you could see in the distance. I actually stopped short at my first sight and just stood there for a few minutes while it all seeped into my memory. This was probably the first time since I’ve been here that it finally hit me. I am HERE. I am in New Zealand! A place that I have wanted to visit for as long as I can remember. And it is AMAZING. As I sat on the smooth stone beach on the lake shore, a pair of black swans swam up and were feeding only about 30 feet from where I was sitting. Everything was so peaceful that I completely lost track of time and couldn’t even guess at how long I sat there, just taking the occasional picture and staring at the beauty in front of me. You can look at all the pictures on the internet, but nothing really prepares you for being here.
Sometimes the world places an opportunity in front of you that you could only have imagined in your wildest dreams. When it’s right in front of you, do not hesitate… take it! The stars can only align so many times. One of my top bucket
list items has always been to live in New Zealand (land of hobbits and elves and wizards of course), and through some incredible turn of fate, I got offered a job coaching ski racing on the South Island of New Zealand. The job offer was for three months, from the beginning of July through the end of September and I decided I would stay an extra month afterwards to travel. At first I was simply awestruck that I would finally be going to the destination of my dreams, and now that I’m here…. I’m still in awe!
I’ve been living in New Zealand now for just shy of two weeks. It’s definitely started on the work-heavy side of things. I’m living with the other two coaches and anywhere from 4 – 6 of the kids on the team. We’re in a motel in the tiny town of Springfield – about an hour from Christchurch, and around 30 minutes to the nearest ski field, Porters Ski Area, where we have been training every day.
[For some background: I’m working for elitesport; a ski racing academy with kids anywhere from age 7 to 16 from all over New Zealand training to be ski racers.]
My first day coaching here was an absolute wash. Literally. It POURED rain the 
entire time and we couldn’t even get to the top of the mountain. I’m happy to say, it was all uphill from there! We had training get cancelled because of a huge snowstorm that came through, which meant the next day was a POWDER DAY!! New Zealand powder days are admit, not as great as Colorado powder days, but no matter where you are, good skiing is still good skiing!! This was also the first time I went to the top of the mountain and saw the unbelievable view. Snowcapped mountains as far as the eye can see, with beautiful natural lakes at their bases. I love the mountains and I have seen quite a few in my 24 years, but overlooking the Southern Alps in New Zealand from the top of a ski field was an unreal, “pinch me” moment.
As I mentioned, the last two weeks have bee
n pretty much 100% centered on working, as the kids are out on school holidays right now. The only bright side to waking up at 6am to be on the mountain by 7:30, has been the incredible sunrises every morning. Looking down a training course with kids flying through the gates and a beautiful peachy-pink and yellow sunrise peeking up over the mountain peaks beyond has been a dreamy start to a life-changing adventure.
Send this to a friend